Venture into the heart of Sarawak’s lush wilderness and be captivated
by its best-kept waterfalls.
Whenever you explore deep within the heart of Sarawak, you’re bound to find a pristine paradise that remains largely undiscovered by many and that includes the remote area of Ulu Baram. As a nature enthusiast who spends most of her life in the city, I only knew about Ulu Baram when I chanced upon an Instagram post from a local tour operator that promises an adventure unlike any other at the Land of the Hornbills.
So the 4.5 hour drive from Miri, Sarawak’s second largest city, began a day after my birthday. The long journey led me and a group of other nature enthusiasts through laid-back villages before the scenery transitioned to lush trees and mountains canopied by fluffy clouds. As much as this sounded like an opportune time for road trip naps, rough and bumpy rides are the reality of the road conditions in Sarawak’s remote areas. Much of the logging roads are damaged by heavy machineries and 4×4 expeditions. At one point, our vehicle got trapped in the mud and it took a good 15 minutes to get back on the road and head towards Jevinda Village Stay, a charming homestay located in the Kenyah settlement of Long San. After a restful sleep, I woke up unbeknownst to the adventure that awaited me.
Three Sisters Keluan Waterfall
There are only two types of vehicles that can survive the old and bumpy logging roads of Sarawak: a 4-wheel drive (4WD) and a motorcycle. A two-wheeler is not an option for our group, so we hopped on a 4WD for a 30-minute ride to the trailhead. From there, we hiked for 2 hours through the shaded and muddy trail before reaching the Three Sisters Keluan Waterfall. I’ve never seen a Malaysian waterfall quite like it: a triple cascade that pours out of moss-covered rocks and falls into a crystal clear pool. It was truly a breathtaking sight and the perfect introduction to the natural splendors of Ulu Baram.
Tekiwit Waterfall
Like a well-kept treasure in a far-flung land, reaching Tekiwit Waterfall is no easy feat either. Another 2-hour journey on 4WD but this time to a serene Penan village named Data Bila. Then, we embarked on a 1.5 hour hike challenged by steep trail, muddy terrain, and the tropical downpour. Our only motivation was the fainting sound of the waterfall that grew louder and louder as we approach closer to the finish line – it was as if the Bornean rainforest was cheering us on.
Once we arrived and fueled up with home-cooked lunch, we explored the small multi-tiered cascade before we climbed deeper and stood beneath the looming 100-meter waterfall that made us feel so small in the grand scheme of nature’s magnificence.
Dam Brothers Waterfall
This bonus recommendation came when we were still too early to head back to our homestay. Since Mother Nature had been kind and blessed us with sunny skies, we continued with a short drive and crossed through crystal clear river before being greeted by a small but relaxing waterfall.
It was much humble in size than the ones we had seen in the past few days, but it felt peaceful to have the whole place to ourselves. As our group soaked their weary bodies and our local guide enjoyed a packet of prawn crackers, I thought about the bumpy ride we had and how much these waterfalls made it all worth it.
Travel tips
Getting there
Take a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Miri. Then a 4.5-hour 4WD drive from Miri town to Long San, a village in Ulu Baram.
Accommodation
I stayed at Jevinda Village Stay in Long San, Ulu Baram. For rates and enquiries, email jevindavillagestay@gmail.com
Budget
I booked the Passage to Ulu Baram package with Mowgliventure. As of Dec 2025, the package rate is RM1,150 per person.
Cheng Sim 